The Innocents Abroad

Коллекция текстов · travel

Preface
This book is a record of a pleasure trip. If it were a record of a solemn scientific expedition, it would have about it that gravity, that…
Chapter I
For months the great pleasure excursion to Europe and the Holy Land was chatted about in the newspapers everywhere in America and discussed…
Chapter II
Occasionally, during the following month, I dropped in at 117 Wall Street to inquire how the repairing and refurnishing of the vessel was c…
Chapter III
All day Sunday at anchor. The storm had gone down a great deal, but the sea had not. It was still piling its frothy hills high in air “outs…
Chapter IV
We plowed along bravely for a week or more, and without any conflict of jurisdiction among the captains worth mentioning. The passengers so…
Chapter V
Taking it “by and large,” as the sailors say, we had a pleasant ten days’ run from New York to the Azores islands—not a fast run, for the d…
Chapter VI
I think the Azores must be very little known in America. Out of our whole ship’s company there was not a solitary individual who knew anyth…
Chapter VII (1)
A week of buffeting a tempestuous and relentless sea; a week of seasickness and deserted cabins; of lonely quarterdecks drenched with spray…
Chapter VII (2)
Every now and then my glove purchase in Gibraltar last night intrudes itself upon me. Dan and the ship’s surgeon and I had been up to the g…
Chapter VIII
This is royal! Let those who went up through Spain make the best of it—these dominions of the Emperor of Morocco suit our little party well…
Chapter IX
About the first adventure we had yesterday afternoon, after landing here, came near finishing that heedless Blucher. We had just mounted so…
Chapter X
We passed the Fourth of July on board the Quaker City, in mid-ocean. It was in all respects a characteristic Mediterranean day—faultlessly…
Chapter XI
We are getting foreignized rapidly and with facility. We are getting reconciled to halls and bedchambers with unhomelike stone floors and n…
Chapter XII
We have come five hundred miles by rail through the heart of France. What a bewitching land it is! What a garden! Surely the leagues of bri…
Chapter XIII
The next morning we were up and dressed at ten o’clock. We went to the ‘commissionaire’ of the hotel—I don’t know what a ‘commissionaire’ i…
Chapter XIV
We went to see the Cathedral of Notre Dame. We had heard of it before. It surprises me sometimes to think how much we do know and how intel…
Chapter XV
One of our pleasantest visits was to Pere la Chaise, the national burying-ground of France, the honored resting-place of some of her greate…
Chapter XVI
VERSAILLES! It is wonderfully beautiful! You gaze and stare and try to understand that it is real, that it is on the earth, that it is not…
Chapter XVII
We had a pleasant journey of it seaward again. We found that for the three past nights our ship had been in a state of war. The first night…
Chapter XVIII
All day long we sped through a mountainous country whose peaks were bright with sunshine, whose hillsides were dotted with pretty villas si…
Chapter XIX (1)
“Do you wis zo haut can be?” That was what the guide asked when we were looking up at the bronze horses on the Arch of Peace. It meant, do…
Chapter XIX (2)
Expression! People coolly pretend to read it who would think themselves presumptuous if they pretended to interpret the hieroglyphics on th…
Chapter XX
We left Milan by rail. The Cathedral six or seven miles behind us; vast, dreamy, bluish, snow-clad mountains twenty miles in front of us,—t…
Chapter XXI
We voyaged by steamer down the Lago di Lecco, through wild mountain scenery, and by hamlets and villas, and disembarked at the town of Lecc…
Chapter XXII
This Venice, which was a haughty, invincible, magnificent Republic for nearly fourteen hundred years; whose armies compelled the world’s ap…
Chapter XXIII (1)
The Venetian gondola is as free and graceful, in its gliding movement, as a serpent. It is twenty or thirty feet long, and is narrow and de…
Chapter XXIII (2)
Now it does give me real pain to speak in this almost unappreciative way of the old masters and their martyrs, because good friends of mine…
Chapter XXIV
Some of the Quaker City’s passengers had arrived in Venice from Switzerland and other lands before we left there, and others were expected…
Chapter XXV
There are a good many things about this Italy which I do not understand and more especially I can not understand how a bankrupt Government…
Chapter XXVI (1)
What is it that confers the noblest delight? What is that which swells a man’s breast with pride above that which any other experience can…
Chapter XXVI (2)
I prefer not to describe St. Peter’s. It has been done before. The ashes of Peter, the disciple of the Saviour, repose in a crypt under the…
Chapter XXVII (1)
So far, good. If any man has a right to feel proud of himself, and satisfied, surely it is I. For I have written about the Coliseum, and th…
Chapter XXVII (2)
In the catacombs were buried St. Cecilia, St. Agnes, and several other of the most celebrated of the saints. In the catacomb of St. Callixt…
Chapter XXVIII
From the sanguinary sports of the Holy Inquisition; the slaughter of the Coliseum; and the dismal tombs of the Catacombs, I naturally pass…
Chapter XXIX
The ship is lying here in the harbor of Naples quarantined. She has been here several days and will remain several more. We that came by ra…
Chapter XXX
Ascent of Vesuvius Continued “See Naples and die.” Well, I do not know that one would necessarily die after merely seeing it, but to attemp…
Chapter XXXI
The Buried City of Pompeii They pronounce it Pom-pay-e. I always had an idea that you went down into Pompeii with torches, by the way of da…
Chapter XXXII (1)
Home, again! For the first time, in many weeks, the ship’s entire family met and shook hands on the quarter-deck. They had gathered from ma…
Chapter XXXII (2)
As we turned and moved again through the temple, I wished that the illustrious men who had sat in it in the remote ages could visit it agai…
Chapter XXXIII
From Athens all through the islands of the Grecian Archipelago, we saw little but forbidding sea-walls and barren hills, sometimes surmount…
Chapter XXXIV (1)
Mosques are plenty, churches are plenty, graveyards are plenty, but morals and whiskey are scarce. The Koran does not permit Mohammedans to…
Chapter XXXIV (2)
They put me in another part of the barn and laid me on a stuffy sort of pallet, which was not made of cloth of gold, or Persian shawls, but…
Chapter XXXV
We left a dozen passengers in Constantinople, and sailed through the beautiful Bosporus and far up into the Black Sea. We left them in the…
Chapter XXXVI
We have got so far east, now—a hundred and fifty-five degrees of longitude from San Francisco—that my watch can not “keep the hang” of the…
Chapter XXXVII (1)
We anchored here at Yalta, Russia, two or three days ago. To me the place was a vision of the Sierras. The tall, gray mountains that back i…
Chapter XXXVII (2)
The sea has been unusually rough all day. However, we have had a lively time of it, anyhow. We have had quite a run of visitors. The Govern…
Chapter XXXVIII
We returned to Constantinople, and after a day or two spent in exhausting marches about the city and voyages up the Golden Horn in caiques,…
Chapter XXXIX
We inquired, and learned that the lions of Smyrna consisted of the ruins of the ancient citadel, whose broken and prodigious battlements fr…
Chapter XL
This has been a stirring day. The Superintendent of the railway put a train at our disposal, and did us the further kindness of accompanyin…
Chapter XLI
When I last made a memorandum, we were at Ephesus. We are in Syria, now, encamped in the mountains of Lebanon. The interregnum has been lon…
Chapter XLII
We are camped near Temnin-el-Foka—a name which the boys have simplified a good deal, for the sake of convenience in spelling. They call it…
Chapter XLIII
We had a tedious ride of about five hours, in the sun, across the Valley of Lebanon. It proved to be not quite so much of a garden as it ha…
Chapter XLIV
The next day was an outrage upon men and horses both. It was another thirteen-hour stretch (including an hour’s “nooning.”) It was over the…
Chapter XLV (1)
The last twenty-four hours we staid in Damascus I lay prostrate with a violent attack of cholera, or cholera morbus, and therefore had a go…
Chapter XLV (2)
Christ knew how to preach to these simple, superstitious, disease-tortured creatures: He healed the sick. They flocked to our poor human do…
Chapter XLVI
About an hour’s ride over a rough, rocky road, half flooded with water, and through a forest of oaks of Bashan, brought us to Dan. From a l…
Chapter XLVII (1)
We traversed some miles of desolate country whose soil is rich enough, but is given over wholly to weeds—a silent, mournful expanse, wherei…
Chapter XLVII (2)
Lest any man think I mean to be ill-natured when I talk about our pilgrims as I have been talking, I wish to say in all sincerity that I do…
Chapter XLVIII
Magdala is not a beautiful place. It is thoroughly Syrian, and that is to say that it is thoroughly ugly, and cramped, squalid, uncomfortab…
Chapter XLIX
We took another swim in the Sea of Galilee at twilight yesterday, and another at sunrise this morning. We have not sailed, but three swims…
Chapter L
We descended from Mount Tabor, crossed a deep ravine, followed a hilly, rocky road to Nazareth—distant two hours. All distances in the East…
Chapter LI (1)
Nazareth is wonderfully interesting because the town has an air about it of being precisely as Jesus left it, and one finds himself saying,…
Chapter LI (2)
Ahab, King of Samaria, (this was a very vast kingdom, for those days, and was very nearly half as large as Rhode Island) dwelt in the city…
Chapter LII
The narrow canon in which Nablous, or Shechem, is situated, is under high cultivation, and the soil is exceedingly black and fertile. It is…
Chapter LIII (1)
A fast walker could go outside the walls of Jerusalem and walk entirely around the city in an hour. I do not know how else to make one unde…
Chapter LIII (2)
The walls and roof of this grotto still weep bitter tears in memory of the event that transpired on Calvary, and devout pilgrims groan and…
Chapter LIV
We were standing in a narrow street, by the Tower of Antonio. “On these stones that are crumbling away,” the guide said, “the Saviour sat a…
Chapter LV (1)
We cast up the account. It footed up pretty fairly. There was nothing more at Jerusalem to be seen, except the traditional houses of Dives…
Chapter LV (2)
When I was a boy I somehow got the impression that the river Jordan was four thousand miles long and thirty-five miles wide. It is only nin…
Chapter LVI
We visited all the holy places about Jerusalem which we had left unvisited when we journeyed to the Jordan and then, about three o’clock on…
Chapter LVII
It was worth a kingdom to be at sea again. It was a relief to drop all anxiety whatsoever—all questions as to where we should go; how long…
Chapter LVIII (1)
The donkeys were all good, all handsome, all strong and in good condition, all fast and all willing to prove it. They were the best we had…
Chapter LVIII (2)
After years of waiting, it was before me at last. The great face was so sad, so earnest, so longing, so patient. There was a dignity not of…
Chapter LIX
We were at sea now, for a very long voyage—we were to pass through the entire length of the Levant; through the entire length of the Medite…
Chapter LX
Ten or eleven o’clock found us coming down to breakfast one morning in Cadiz. They told us the ship had been lying at anchor in the harbor…
Chapter LXI
In this place I will print an article which I wrote for the New York Herald the night we arrived. I do it partly because my contract with m…
Conclusion
Nearly one year has flown since this notable pilgrimage was ended; and as I sit here at home in San Francisco thinking, I am moved to confe…