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[The Knighted Knave of Bergen] · “The Knave of Bergen”
The Knighted Knave of Bergen One day it occurred to me that it had been many years since the world had been afforded the spectacle of a man…
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[Landing a Monarch at Heidelberg]
Heidelberg Landing a Monarch at Heidelberg We stopped at a hotel by the railway-station. Next morning, as we sat in my room waiting for bre…
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[What Stumped the Blue Jays]
Baker’s Bluejay Yarn What Stumped the Blue Jays “When I first begun to understand jay language correctly, there was a little incident happe…
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[The Laborious Beer King]
Student Life The Laborious Beer King The summer semester was in full tide; consequently the most frequent figure in and about Heidelberg wa…
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[Dueling by Wholesale]
At the Students’ Dueling-Ground Dueling by Wholesale One day in the interest of science my agent obtained permission to bring me to the stu…
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[A Sport that Sometimes Kills]
The third duel was brief and bloody. The surgeon stopped it when he saw that one of the men had received such bad wounds that he could not…
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[How Bismark Fought]
In addition to the corps laws, there are some corps usages which have the force of laws. Perhaps the president of a corps notices that one…
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[I Second Gambetta in a Terrific Duel]
The Great French Duel I Second Gambetta in a Terrific Duel Much as the modern French duel is ridiculed by certain smart people, it is in re…
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[What the Beautiful Maiden Said]
One day we took the train and went down to Mannheim to see “King Lear” played in German. It was a mistake. We sat in our seats three whole…
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[How Wagner Operas Bang Along]
Three or four hours. That is a long time to sit in one place, whether one be conspicuous or not, yet some of Wagner’s operas bang along for…
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[I Paint a “Turner”]
The summer days passed pleasantly in Heidelberg. We had a skilled trainer, and under his instructions we were getting our legs in the right…
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[What the Wives Saved]
The Rathhaus, or municipal building, is of the quaintest and most picturesque Middle-Age architecture. It has a massive portico and steps,…
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[My Long Crawl in the Dark]
When we got back to the hotel I wound and set the pedometer and put it in my pocket, for I was to carry it next day and keep record of the…
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[Rafting Down the Neckar]
When the landlord learned that I and my agents were artists, our party rose perceptibly in his esteem; we rose still higher when he learned…
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[Charming Waterside Pictures]
Men and women and cattle were at work in the dewy fields by this time. The people often stepped aboard the raft, as we glided along the gra…
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The Cave of the Specter · An Ancient Legend of the Rhine [The Lorelei] · The Legend
The Cave of the Specter Two miles below Hornberg castle is a cave in a low cliff, which the captain of the raft said had once been occupied…
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The Lorelei · The Lorelei · [Why Germans Wear Spectacles]
The Lorelei I cannot divine what it meaneth, This haunting nameless pain: A tale of the bygone ages Keeps brooding through my brain: The fa…
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Legend of the “Spectacular Ruin”
The captain of the raft, who was as full of history as he could stick, said that in the Middle Ages a most prodigious fire-breathing dragon…
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[The Kindly Courtesy of Germans]
In the morning we took breakfast in the garden, under the trees, in the delightful German summer fashion. The air was filled with the fragr…
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[The Deadly Jest of Dilsberg]
However, I wander from the raft. We made the port of Necharsteinach in good season, and went to the hotel and ordered a trout dinner, the s…
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The Legend of Dilsberg Castle
It was to this effect. In the old times there was once a great company assembled at the castle, and festivity ran high. Of course there was…
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[My Precious, Priceless Tear-Jug]
Next morning brought good news—our trunks had arrived from Hamburg at last. Let this be a warning to the reader. The Germans are very consc…
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[Insolent Shopkeepers and Gabbling Americans]
Baden-Baden sits in the lap of the hills, and the natural and artificial beauties of the surroundings are combined effectively and charming…
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[The Black Forest and Its Treasures]
From Baden-Baden we made the customary trip into the Black Forest. We were on foot most of the time. One cannot describe those noble woods,…
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Skeleton for a Black Forest Novel
Rich old farmer, named Huss. Has inherited great wealth of manure, and by diligence has added to it. It is double-starred in Baedeker. The…
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[Nicodemus Dodge and the Skeleton]
We were satisfied that we could walk to Oppenau in one day, now that we were in practice; so we set out the next morning after breakfast de…
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[I Protect the Empress of Germany]
That was a thoroughly satisfactory walk—and the only one we were ever to have which was all the way downhill. We took the train next mornin…
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[Hunted by the Little Chamois] (1)
Next morning we left in the train for Switzerland, and reached Lucerne about ten o’clock at night. The first discovery I made was that the…
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[Hunted by the Little Chamois] (2)
“You have an unerring instinct. What else did you do? What did you talk about?” “Well, I asked the girl how old she was.” “Undoubtedly. You…
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[The Nest of the Cuckoo-clock]
The Hofkirche is celebrated for its organ concerts. All summer long the tourists flock to that church about six o’clock in the evening, and…
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[I Spare an Awful Bore]
Close by the Lion of Lucerne is what they call the “Glacier Garden”—and it is the only one in the world. It is on high ground. Four or five…
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[The Jodel and Its Native Wilds]
The Rigi-Kulm is an imposing Alpine mass, six thousand feet high, which stands by itself, and commands a mighty prospect of blue lakes, gre…
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[Looking West for Sunrise]
He kept his word. We heard his horn and instantly got up. It was dark and cold and wretched. As I fumbled around for the matches, knocking…
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[Harris Climbs Mountains for Me]
An hour’s sail brought us to Lucerne again. I judged it best to go to bed and rest several days, for I knew that the man who undertakes to…
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[Alp-scaling by Carriage]
We now prepared for a considerable walk—from Lucerne to Interlaken, over the Bruenig Pass. But at the last moment the weather was so good t…
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[The Jungfrau, the Bride, and the Piano]
We located ourselves at the Jungfrau Hotel, one of those huge establishments which the needs of modern travel have created in every attract…
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[We Climb Far—by Buggy]
The beautiful Giesbach Fall is near Interlaken, on the other side of the lake of Brienz, and is illuminated every night with those gorgeous…
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[The World’s Highest Pig Farm]
We hired the only guide left, to lead us on our way. He was over seventy, but he could have given me nine-tenths of his strength and still…
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[Swindling the Coroner] (1)
A great and priceless thing is a new interest! How it takes possession of a man! how it clings to him, how it rides him! I strode onward fr…
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[Swindling the Coroner] (2)
Our search for those remains having failed, we inspected with a glass the dim and distant track of an old-time avalanche that once swept do…
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[The Fiendish Fun of Alp-climbing]
We did not oversleep at St. Nicholas. The church-bell began to ring at four-thirty in the morning, and from the length of time it continued…
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[Our Imposing Column Starts Upward]
After I had finished my readings, I was no longer myself; I was tranced, uplifted, intoxicated, by the almost incredible perils and adventu…
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[I Conquer the Gorner Grat] (1)
We went into camp on that wild spot to which that ram had brought us. The men were greatly fatigued. Their conviction that we were lost was…
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[I Conquer the Gorner Grat] (2)
Cavilers object that water boils at a lower and lower temperature the higher and higher you go, and hence the apparent anomaly. I answer th…
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[We Travel by Glacier]
A guide-book is a queer thing. The reader has just seen what a man who undertakes the great ascent from Zermatt to the Riffelberg Hotel mus…
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[Piteous Relics at Chamonix]
I am not so ignorant about glacial movement, now, as I was when I took passage on the Gorner Glacier. I have “read up” since. I am aware th…
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[The Fearful Disaster of 1865]
One of the most memorable of all the Alpine catastrophes was that of July, 1865, on the Matterhorn—already slightly referred to, a few page…
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Mr. Whymper’s Narrative
We started from Zermatt on the 13th of July, at half past five, on a brilliant and perfectly cloudless morning. We were eight in number—Cro…
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[Chillon has a Nice, Roomy Dungeon]
Switzerland is simply a large, humpy, solid rock, with a thin skin of grass stretched over it. Consequently, they do not dig graves, they b…
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[My Poor Sick Friend Disappointed]
Everybody was out-of-doors; everybody was in the principal street of the village—not on the sidewalks, but all over the street; everybody w…
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[I Scale Mont Blanc—by Telescope]
After breakfast, that next morning in Chamonix, we went out in the yard and watched the gangs of excursioning tourists arriving and departi…
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A Catastrophe Which Cost Eleven Lives
On the 5th of September, 1870, a caravan of eleven persons departed from Chamonix to make the ascent of Mont Blanc. Three of the party were…
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[Meeting a Hog on a Precipice]
Mr. Harris and I took some guides and porters and ascended to the Hotel des Pyramides, which is perched on the high moraine which borders t…
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[Queer European Manners]
We spent a few pleasant restful days at Geneva, that delightful city where accurate time-pieces are made for all the rest of the world, but…
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[Beauty of Women—and of Old Masters]
In Milan we spent most of our time in the vast and beautiful Arcade or Gallery, or whatever it is called. Blocks of tall new buildings of t…
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[Hanged with a Golden Rope]
One lingers about the Cathedral a good deal, in Venice. There is a strong fascination about it—partly because it is so old, and partly beca…
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Recipe for an Ash-Cake · Recipe for New English Pie · Recipe for German Coffee
Recipe for an Ash-Cake Take a lot of water and add to it a lot of coarse Indian-meal and about a quarter of a lot of salt. Mix well togethe…
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[Titian Bad and Titian Good]
I wonder why some things are? For instance, Art is allowed as much indecent license today as in earlier times—but the privileges of Literat…
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Appendix
Nothing gives such weight and dignity to a book as an Appendix. HERODOTUS
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The Portier
Omar Khay’am, the poet-prophet of Persia, writing more than eight hundred years ago, has said: “In the four parts of the earth are many tha…
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Heidelberg Castle
Heidelberg Castle must have been very beautiful before the French battered and bruised and scorched it two hundred years ago. The stone is…
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The College Prison
It seems that the student may break a good many of the public laws without having to answer to the public authorities. His case must come b…
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The Awful German Language (1)
A little learning makes the whole world kin.—Proverbs xxxii, 7. I went often to look at the collection of curiosities in Heidelberg Castle,…
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The Awful German Language (2)
There, now, the reader can see for himself that this pronoun business is a very awkward thing for the unaccustomed tongue. I suppose that i…
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The Awful German Language (3)
Gentlemen: Since I arrived, a month ago, in this old wonderland, this vast garden of Germany, my English tongue has so often proved a usele…
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Legend of the Castles
Called the “Swallow’s Nest” and “The Brothers,” as Condensed from the Captain’s Tale In the neighborhood of three hundred years ago the Swa…
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German Journals
The daily journals of Hamburg, Frankfort, Baden, Munich, and Augsburg are all constructed on the same general plan. I speak of these becaus…